This is my blog about my little bantam d7 that i bought in a box ! Several other bantam owners have requested help regarding there restorations or running of there bantams so i thought why not.... i hope this is of interest to you !
My first motor bike, the BSA Bantam D14/4, bought second hand from RJ Ware, Commercial Street, Newport. I later upgraded to a BSA B25 Starfire.
My second and last motor bike, bought new from RJ Ware, Commercial
Street, Newport (my first bike was a D14/4 BSA Bantam). After a
carefree day driving around the Brecon Beacons, some idiot in a car came
onto Pontymoile roundabout and knocked me off as I was driving around
it. (Neither bike nor myself were badly damaged).
BSA B25 Starfire Birmingham University 1970
My second and last motor bike, bought new from RJ Ware, Commercial Street, Newport (my first bike was a D14/4 BSA Bantam). Visiting a friend studying at Birmingham University.
I noticed today why my rear wheel speedo meter broke!
"After fitting the drive-side bearing and its retainer, insert the spindle from the right-hand side and drive in the right hand bearing to the spindle shoulder. FIT THE DISTANCE PIECE (11) on to the spindle, then the speedometer gearbox taking care to mesh the driving dogs"
So when you don't place the "Distance piece" with i lost / didn't have when i bought the bike you just CRUSH the speedometer gearbox!
So that's fixed with some leftover metal and the lathe!
Found this 125cc race engine on e-bay... 300£ to start
BSA BANTAM 125 RACE ENGINE CURIOSITY GOT THE BETTER OF ME SO I HAVE REMOVED THE HEAD AND BARREL PISTON IS ON STANDARD BORE ALLOY LINERED BARREL ALLOY CENTREPLUG HEAD NEW PISTON LOOKS TO BE UNRUN SINCE BUILD ENGINE WILL BE SHIPPED STRIPPED CARB AND STAND NOT INCLUDED CUSTOM BARREL AND HEAD EXACT SPEC UNKNOWN PLEASE EMAIL ME FOR MORE INFO
BSA Bantam engine rebiult for trials use. Bored to 185cc. lowered
gearing on both cranck shaft and output shaft. New clutch plates. new
bearings, seals and gaskets. Modified Montesa 315 kickstart. Modified
TY175 exhaust. Think it sounds well.
Take off the clutch cover plate, retained by three small screws with spring washers. Now, using service tool No. 61-319 compress the clutch springs to allow the large plate retaining circlip to be removed.
Remove the tool, and lift off, and lift off the retaining plate complete with springs and cups. The pressure plate, and friction plates can now be taken out for inspection. Take care not to loose the mushroom headed push rods which fits in the end of the mainshaft.
If the clutch plates or springs are the only items requiring attention the clutch not be dismantled any further.
New clutch springs hae a free length of 1-9/64" (29 mm) and if this length has reduced by more than 1/32" (0,8 mm) it is recommended that a new set be fitted
27 mm instead off 29mm
The four driving plates have segments of a special friction material securely bonded to the metal.
All these segments should be complete and unbroken. Even if there appears to be no damage to the plates or segments, the overall thickness of each segment should be measured. The thickness of a new driving plate is 1/8" (3,2mm) and if the wear is excessive the plates should be renewed.
3 mm instead of 3,2
The tags on the outer edges of the plates should be a reasonable fit in the housing slots. If there are any burrs on the tags, renew the complete plate.
The three driven plates should be free from score marks, and must be perfectly flat. To check the latter lay the plate on a piece of plate-glass, if it can be rocked it is obviously buckled and must be replaced with a new one.